Karen Foy heads to the Llyn Peninsula to find out more about a village that pays a unique homage to one of its sons.
Nestled on the banks of the Afon Dwyfor, in an area known as Eifionydd, at the southern tip of the Llyn Peninsula sits the tiny village of Llanystumdwy. What it lacks in acreage it more than makes up for in interest and is a magnet for visitors from far and wide.
Upon first inspection it appears to be like any other picturesque Welsh village but investigate a little further and you’ll soon realise that a number of the landmarks in the community pay homage to one man – former British Prime Minister David Lloyd George.
From Schoolboy to Statesman
Born in Chorlton-on-Medlock, Manchester, on the 17th January 1863, David Lloyd George was the son of a schoolmaster. Upon his father’s death, the young boy’s life changed considerably when his mother took both him and his brother back to her native Llanystumdwy to be raised at the family cottage called Highgate. Encouraged and strongly influenced by his Uncle Robert – a shoemaker and local preacher with strong political opinions – it was here that David’s Welsh nationalist views developed and in 1890, after qualifying as a solicitor, he took on the challenge of becoming a Liberal member of parliament for Caernarfon. His own radical opinions made him stand out from the crowd and by 1905 the then Prime Minister, Sir Henry Campbell-Bannerman, offered him the post of President for the Board of Trade, leading to the position of Chancellor of the Exchequer, under Herbert Asquith.
When war broke out, his next role as Minister of Munitions was followed by a six month period as Secretary of State for War, but encouraged by his continued disagreements with Asquith’s decisions, and with the support of both the Conservative and Labour leaders, Lloyd George replaced his predecessor as Prime Minister.
Tributes and Testimony
Today, the Lloyd George Museum and Highgate – his boyhood home – are major attractions in the village. Paying homage to David’s early life, Highgate has been recreated in the period between 1864 and 1880 when he would have sat with his brother at their little wooden desks doing their schoolwork surrounded by simple furniture and family mementoes. His Uncle’s shoemaker’s workshop – which would have also been used as a meeting place for local liberals to discuss politics – has been recreated using both original items and replicas to set the scene.
The museum has done a fantastic job of constructing a ‘timeline’ of Lloyd George’s life from schoolboy to statesman and follows his story through his fifty year political career with displays of documents, paintings, photographs, outfits he wore and personal memorabilia along with an amazing ‘talking head’ which recounts interesting facts and details of his speeches.
If you visit, take a moment to absorb the surroundings of this pretty yet secluded village. It is here that the opinions of one the greatest leaders of the 20th century were nurtured. Some choose to focus on the fact that he was unable to attain peace in Ireland and that his career was plagued by scandal, but equally he managed to lead a country through one of the worst conflicts of our time, during World War One, becoming the major British politician involved in the signing of the Treaty of Versailles. He implemented the Old Age Pensions Act in 1908, to provide a small income for people over seventy, and successfully introduced the National Insurance Act in 1911, as a contributory insurance against illness and unemployment. Momentous achievements in anyone’s book!
Promoting Creativity
With secluded gardens benefiting from stunning views over Cardigan Bay, Lloyd George’s last home – Tŷ Newydd – is situated on the outskirts of the village. Today, it continues his philosophy for encouraging independent thoughts and opinions by providing the hub for the National Writers’ Centre for Wales. It offers retreats, courses and bursaries for those interested in honing their writing skills surrounded by some of the most beautiful and inspiring scenery in Wales.
Initially owned by Rowland Owen during the 16th century, the house is believed to have passed through the family, changing its name to Plas Newydd before reverting back to Tŷ Newydd in 1631. By 1700, Thomas Williams, the former rector of Llanrwst, Llansannan and Denbigh acquired the property through marriage before later passing it to his son Robert and grandson William Williams. Robert made many architectural changes, whilst William – who had made his fortune working for the East India Company – also added his own touches to the general style of the house.
Over the decades the house passed out of the Williams family and was occupied by tenants, sadly falling into disrepair. It was not until 1943 that Lloyd George bought the property as a retirement home and commissioned Sir Clough Williams-Ellis of Portmeirion fame to extend and renovate the building. Sadly, Lloyd George did not have much time to enjoy the changes.
In 1944 he was honoured with the title of Earl Lloyd George of Dwyfor and in his 82nd year, at home in Tŷ Newydd, he passed away on the 26th March 1945.
The End of an Era
Lloyd George’s gravestone lies a few minutes walk from the Museum in a tranquil setting on the banks of the Afon Dwyfor. As a boy he loved this spot near where the stone bridge, crudely carved with a date of 1745, spans the river to the little Baptist Church of St John’s opposite. The ornate memorial was designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis who also used his architectural flair on the museum gates, the library window at Tŷ Newydd, and the village’s Grade II Listed Capel Moriah Chapel. Lloyd George’s nephew Dr William George, a former Archdruid of Wales, wrote a fitting dedication which the Welsh sculptor Jonah Jones inscribed on an oval slate plaque which sits above the gates to Lloyd George’s final resting place.
Irrevocably tied to its political connections, Llanystumdwy proudly honours its former resident but also has a lot to offer the casual sightseer. Opposite Lloyd George’s boyhood home is the black and white Tafarn y Plu pub built two hundred years ago as the Feathers Inn under the landlordship of John Ellis Hughes and his sister Mary Hannah. Today, it is the only remaining inn of five that once serviced the village and is a great place for refreshment.
The woodland and riverside walks are beautiful no matter what the season but consider extending your adventure by linking up with the Llyn Coastal Path for stunning views and sandy beaches with a backdrop of rugged mountain terrain. Sea fishing, trout and salmon fishing and coarse lake fishing can all be enjoyed in this region but if you prefer cute and cuddly to aquatics then why not pop in to Llanystumdwy’s Rabbit Farm and Animal Park. For over thirty years rare breeds have been reared here providing an ideal opportunity for children to handle rabbits, guinea pigs and puppies or feed pigmy goats, alpacas and ponies under the knowledgeable and experienced supervision of the staff. Refreshments can be purchased in the onsite courtyard’s Smithy Café.
On our travels, how often have we casually dismissed a small village as likely to have nothing to offer the passing tourist? This series has taught me not to be quite so quick to judge. In many cases new experiences, buildings of historical importance and unique beauty spots lie hidden from view just off the main routes. Enjoy the spirit of adventure, detour slightly on your journey and who knows what attractions, amenities and links to our heritage you might find to enjoy a full, fun, family day out!
