Hawarden’s Lasting Legacy

Karen Foy travels along the north Wales coast to the village of Hawarden and gives us a glimpse into the events which shaped its fascinating past.

Ancient Origins…

Despite the hub of the community centering around one main street, Hawarden has a lot to offer a visitor to the Flintshire area of Wales. Pronounced ‘Harden’, this ancient parish was once called Pen-y-Llwch meaning ‘head of the lake or swamp’ and is thought to refer to the fact that originally, this land was partially under water.

Today, evidence of this can still be found in the name of the adjacent lowland known as ‘Sealand’ which was formed by the gradual silting up of the river Dee estuary close by. This reclamation of marshland allowed the population to grow with settlers finding work in the collieries, ironworks and brickworks which began to prosper in the surrounding areas.

Flintshire Archives could not be better located in the heart of the village for those who want to find out more about the history and heritage of this region and the families who lived and worked in this part of Wales.

Hawarden was the ancestral seat of the Glynne family, who resided in Hawarden Castle, a mansion on the estate formerly known as Broadlane Hall. Rebuilt and redesigned by the sixth baronet in 1752, this private property also shares the grounds and parkland with the ruins of a former castle, thought to have been constructed during medieval times – its impressive round keep perched high upon a Norman motte.

The influence of the Glynne’s can be seen around the village with streets and even a public house named in their honour, but it was the marriage of Catherine Glynne which was to make the most impact on the village, when she met a man who was not only to change the face of Britain, but also the future history of Hawarden as we know it today.

Lifelong Learning

Born at 62, Rodney Street in Liverpool on the 29th December 1809, William Ewart Gladstone was the fourth son of a rich merchant called John Gladstone. John had great political ambitions himself and later in life entered the House of Commons, which led to his son’s interest in a political career.

William’s love of learning grew during his school years at Eton and later at Christ Church, Oxford. His quest for knowledge covered subjects such as history, theology and philosophy and the start of his passion for books was fuelled at an early age.

Throughout his life and sixty three year political career, which included four terms as Prime Minister, Gladstone kept diaries and regularly recorded details of the books he had read and the bookshops he had visited, in search of that elusive title.

As his collection grew, he began to think of ways in which he could make his books more accessible to the public and toyed with the idea of creating a permanent library where people could study, and where he could provide inexpensive lodgings nearby, so the readers could stay whilst their research was carried out. At the time, Gladstone was living at Hawarden Castle, marital home of his wife’s family – the Glynnes. He had taken over the running of the estate when his brother in law, Sir Stephen Glynne had been threatened with bankruptcy and as Gladstone catalogued his books, he decided to build an extension to accommodate his growing library.

In 1889, on the site of the present St Deiniol’s Library – now a magnificent building set back off Hawarden’s main thoroughfare – a temporary iron building with two large rooms and purpose built study areas was erected which marked the beginning of Gladstone’s dream, of a residential library. With the help of his valet and one of his daughters, the eighty year old Gladstone moved his 32,000 books to their new home a quarter of a mile away from Hawarden Castle, using wheelbarrows.

His aim to create a permanent residential library was discussed with his family and he put aside £40,000 to finance the project and appointed trustees ensuring that his vision would be a long term scheme. Upon his death in 1898, an appeal for funds raised £9,000 which was used to build a permanent library on the site, designed by Chester architect – John Douglas. As the most notable commission of Douglas’s career, it was vital that the library fulfilled the family’s wishes. The Gothic building was constructed in two stages using sandstone outside and oak fittings throughout. The first sod was cut by Catherine Gladstone on the 18th of September 1899 and three weeks later the foundation stone was laid. By the 14th of October 1902, the library was complete and an opening ceremony took place to commemorate the occasion.

The Gladstone family funded a residential wing, which opened four years later and remains to this day as a place of ‘divine learning’.

As the years passed, the library has acquired thousands more books and manuscripts on subjects Gladstone enjoyed and other areas including literature. It also houses much of the former Prime Minister’s personal correspondence and memorabilia.

Many of the books contain notes in the margins made by Gladstone as he read and studied the text, showing that he didn’t always agree with what was written and that there were many questions still left unanswered.

A particular area that Gladstone was interested in was theology, different religions and church history. Many papers were left to St Deiniol’s by the Bishop Moorman of the Franciscan Movement and for anyone with a special interest in this area of religion, the manuscripts are sure to make fascinating reading.

With its strong spiritual connections, it’s not surprising that the library house contains a small chapel, which performed its first service on the 26th of April 1910. Today, regular services still take place for residents ensuring that its scholarly community continues with its ecclesiastical education, even outside the actual library walls. Over the years most of St Deiniol’s readers have been clergy, but now that the library holds such a wide range of subjects and most of the collection is now computerised, more and more amateur scholars and interested individuals are finding themselves drawn to this sanctuary of inspiration and knowledge.

Within the magnificent house of St Deiniol’s is a permanent exhibition to Gladstone’s life and work which includes numerous photos, newspaper cuttings, pottery sculptures and even a cabinet containing his own travelling case and writing implements. The atmosphere is that of a country house – like stepping back in time to the Victorian era, where the clock ticks loudly in the corner and the smell of the old wooden panelling transports you to another world. Now thought fondly as a ‘health farm for the mind’, St Deiniol’s Library is home to over 250,000 items and is a lasting memorial to its founder – William Ewart Gladstone.

A Haven of Peace

Adjacent to the library is St Deiniol’s Church. With its 1000 year old history and list of rectors dating back to the 12th century, the church has seen many changes and improvements over the decades. Most notably, was a complete renovation in the mid 19th century when the building was destroyed by fire in October 1857. A restoration committee was formed and St Deiniol’s underwent extensive rebuilding. Although some older features were saved, the fire paved the way for new additions including an eagle lectern donated by Gladstone in 1872.

It’s perhaps not commonly known that the famous arts and crafts designer, William Morris created some of the stained glass windows within the church along with his great friend and business partner Edward Burns Jones, which add a colourful feel to the interior.

As you wander through the building, a number of fascinating dedications to locals of the parish are well worth a read, including a brass plate which pays tribute to the Boydell Family whose son walked to London in 1743 and became the apprentice of a man called Thom. He went on to find great success within his trade and became a very wealthy man before taking the post of Lord Mayor of London in 1790.

Without doubt the most significant feature is within the Gladstone Memorial Chapel – designed by Sir Gilbert Scott – where the reclining figures of Gladstone and his wife have been carved out of Carrara marble and lay in what is known as the ‘boat of life’ sheltered with an angel canopy. The faces were produced using death masks to ensure a complete likeness of the deceased. Above them is an intricately designed window showing the three prophets Ezekiel, Jeremiah and Isaiah who watch over the couple. There are numerous memorials to other members of the Gladstone and Glynne families around the chapel including one to William Charles Gladstone who was killed in 1915 during the First World War and the Coat of Arms of Stephen Edward Gladstone who was Rector of the Parish between 1872 and 1906.

Aviation Advancements

As well as its appealing historical connections, Hawarden has also managed to make its mark in modern times. In 1939, at the start of the Second World War, Hawarden Airport was the base for the RAF’s No.48 Maintenance Unit and until July 1957, stored, maintained and scrapped, thousands of military aircraft. Between 1940 and 1945, veteran pilots known as Air Transport Auxiliary, would ferry repaired aircraft such as, DH Mosquito’s, Halifax’s and Wellington’s to RAF and Naval Squadrons throughout the UK.

Since the 1970’s, the development of the airport has brought work to the area with the addition of the onsite Airbus factory where aircraft wings are produced. Although there are currently no scheduled services, there are regular freight flights provided by the Airbus Beluga, which transports the wings to Toulouse, Bremen and Hamburg. Private charters can also be requested and the airport provides the ideal base for the Flintshire Flying School and other operators.

As we now reach the tenth year of the 21st century, the village is more commonly recognised as being the childhood home of football player Michael Owen, but it is William Ewart Gladstone and the family of his wife Catherine Glynne, who have left a lasting impression on the area, forever reminding us of Hawarden’s links to Britain’s political past and one man’s hopes of education and learning for all.

Words & Images: Karen Foy