This walk starts from Abergynolwyn – and just visiting the pretty little, one-time quarrying village makes the journey west from Tal-y-Llyn Lake more than worthwhile. But the walking is even more enthralling, with a mix of paths that thread their way through deep-cloven valleys and across broad, grassy summits, that offer huge views over the coast, the ever-impressive Cadair Idris and the northern end of the imposing Cambrian Mountains. Choose a good day to make the most of them. There’s also an optional return leg via the Talyllyn Railway.
Distance: 11 miles (18km)
Time: 5-6 hours
Start & finish: Abergynolwyn (SH677069)
Paths: Old quarry tracks, forest tracks, clear paths and some sections of untracked open hillside. Navigation could be difficult in some places with poor visibility.
Maps: OS Explorer Series (1:25 000) OL23
TIC: Tywyn TIC – Tel. (01654) 710070
Nearest Town: Tywyn
Your route
Walk up the narrow lane to the left of the village hall and continue steeply up past signs to Nant Gwernol Station. After 1km, ignore a right turn then take a sharp left. Bear sharp right when it zigzags again and continue easily up to a forest gate. Keep ahead on the main forest track, bearing right at a couple of intersections, and you’ll emerge onto a grassy hillside beneath Tarren y Gesail. Bear half left and follow faint paths up onto the ridge, gaining it at an obvious niche. Now turn right and climb the last few metres to the trig point.
Cross the fence and keep the adjoining one to your left until the ground starts to drop away. Turn right here and locate a clear path that follows the escarpment edge steeply down towards the plantation. At the bottom bear right to walk along the edge of the forestry to a stile. Turn left over the stile and walk straight up through the forest to the other side, where another stile gives access to a clear path that runs along the ridge top.
Follow this path south west, keeping the plantation to your right. You’ll cross Foel y Geifr and climb above the trees to enjoy some lovely open walking, with great views to your left to Mynydd Rhyd-galed. Flank the next hump to the left (south) and rejoin the main track again at Pant Gwyn.
Next up is a huge clamber up onto Tarrenhendre, broken only by a stile along the way. The top is marked by a fence corner, where you’ll see a cairn to your left although this isn’t actually the true summit, which is a few metres further on, to the north-west.
From the cairn, keep the fence to your left and drop easily down onto an ever-narrowing grassy ridge at the head of Cwm Dolgoch. Stay on this until you can easily get down onto a clear grassy track below you. Follow this easily down the south side of the valley to a junction above a few sheepfolds. Bear right across the brook, and then left to follow the track downstream. Continue past a path that leads down to Dolgoch Falls (or pay a visit), and you’ll eventually meet the railway line at the Quarry Siding Halt. If you’ve timed it right, all you need to do is wait for the train. Alternatively, it’s a 45 minute walk along the road.
Words & Pictures: Tom Hutton
First published in Welsh Country Magazine Mar-Apr 2017
