Over the years I’ve been a regular visitor to Llanwrtyd Wells, which nestles in the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains in Powys. Noted for its great Food Festival, Llanwrtyd is also renowned as a Gourmet Oasis for its selection of fine restaurants and pubs. So with a Good Food Guide listing for four years and an A.A. Rosette for the last three years, I couldn’t understand why I hadn’t visited Lasswade before, especially as its also been recommended as one of the best places to eat in the area. 

Opened six years ago, this small Country House Hotel & Restaurant has a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere, whilst owners Emma and Roger Stevens maintain high standards. Roger has always searched tirelessly to source local, small producers and use Farmer’s Markets, way before it was trendy to do so. Their Welsh black beef is produced only a quarter of a mile away from them and their lamb, which varies in breed, is sourced direct from Gaer Farm, nr Builth Wells or the Elan Valley nr Rhayader, whilst fish is delivered fresh from Milford Haven.working with a gardener from a local country house estate’s walled garden, who grows specifically for the Restaurant, whilst a friend of Roger’s supplies delicious honey from local hives at Beulah. Nothing is too much trouble for Roger in his quest for fresh, local food even down to

Being in touch from the field to the table is an integral part of what makes Lasswade tick and you can understand why Roger was asked to be  a Food Ambassador for Mid Wales. The Hotel operates with a deep concern for their impact on the environment to such an extent that they persuaded the Heart of Wales Train line to deliver some of their food produce by train, including their smoked salmon which is described by Rick Stein as one of the best salmons available.

Dinner in Lasswade’s elegant, candlelit regency dining room was truly a delight and to be able literally to feast on fresh, local, mostly organic food with an extensive selection of fine wines made it an evening to remember. We were spoilt for choice, eventually deciding to start with locally smoked organic salmon with a sweet apple and horseradish cream with caviar, my partner choosing the homemade terrine of ham hock which had been pressed between layers of purple sage and served with apple chutney. I then selected the roast cannon of Elan Valley Mutton which was served with woodland mushrooms and a leek soufflé with a Madeira reduction; my partner chose one of his favourites, seared saddle of wild venison, which was served with bubble and squeak, caramelised onions and a thread of red wine jus. Despite feeling full, we couldn’t resist the dessert menu; my partner went for the selection of Welsh unpasteurised cheese whilst I had poached plums in mulled wine with a superb zabaglione sauce. Coffee and local fudge followed and the result was two very contented diners. Every course we’d eaten had been beautifully cooked without heavy flavours, Roger’s talented chefs simply allowing the incredible ingredients to speak for themselves.

I have no idea why I had neglected dining at Lasswade, and since that magnificent meal it has seemed to verge on a crime - alright I’m joking, but it was a huge error – so to make amends I have already booked again. 

Fact File

Proprietors: Emma & Roger Stevens

Chef: Roger Stevens

Address: Station Road, Llanwrtyd Wells, Powys, LD5 4RW

Tel: 01591 610515

Fax: 01591 610611

Email: This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Website: www.lasswadehotel.co.uk

Opening hours:  7 days a week from 7.30pm – 9.30pm for dinner, by prior booking please. Welsh Country readers who quote WC2007 when they book will receive a complimentary glass of Lasswade’s Extra Dessert Wine.